Buenos Aires – There’s a new player in the local world of pizza a la parrilla. I recently reviewed a couple of places that have been around for awhile, Morelia and Mamina, both of which I liked a lot. The new kid on the block, Minna (is there something with M’s and pizza a la parrilla?), is cross-corner from the Madero by Sofitel hotel, on Rosario Vera Peñaloza, in Puerto Madero Este. [All three of these places are now closed, though Morelia maintains two locations – one in Vicente Lopez and one in Caballito.] I didn’t know what to expect as I headed there to join my friend Victor and one of the owners of Viña Alicia winery for lunch. On arrival, I found a large, L-shaped room, with lots of “African earth-tones” as the owner, Fernando, put it – basically a range of oranges, golds, and browns, all on a sort of cream colored background. One of the most pleasant surprises was discovering this temperature controlled wine display at the end of the short part of the “L” – a shame for location, as most of the diners can’t see it, but impressive for the simple fact that it’s temperature controlled! That’s a rarity here in Buenos Aires. On the other hand, the two outside walls of glass looking over the Puerto, make for a far more interesting view.
We’d had no idea in advance, or at least I hadn’t, what the style of food was. Turning to the menu, it was quickly clear that pizza and wine was the theme. There are salads, and some pastas, and a few main course dishes, but at Minna it’s all about the pizza. Right down to the daily after work happy hour with a different featured pizza of the day and matched wine for a promotional price. We started with a couple of appetizers that were good. A bowl of cream of leek soup was asserted by Victor as having good depth of flavor and great texture. The others two of us each ordered the foccacia tibia, described as a traditional warm foccacia with goat cheese and greens. It’s not. I can’t say I didn’t like it, it was certainly tasty. But it wasn’t at all what I’d expect from the description – which would have been something along the lines of what the Romans call a pizza bianca (different from what we call a white pizza, which is a pizza either without sauce, or with a cream type sauce instead of red sauce) – a rectangle of pizza dough, lightly browned in the oven, then split and stuffed with the filling – a favorite snack or light lunch in Rome. This isn’t even a fancified version of it – it was two very narrow strips of toasted bread, perhaps foccacia, though completely crisp, so hard to tell, garnishing a salad of greens and slivers of cheese and I think pears. None of it was warm, it was essentially just a cold salad with two long thin croutons.
I can see that after work special being the way to go – they might want to consider offering something like that throughout the afternoon, from lunch until early evening – I’d bet their lunch business would skyrocket. Especially given the selection of wines being offered (and the wine list is impressive as well – lots of “not the usual suspects” selections). We had a bottle of Amalaya by Colomé 2005, an absolutely delicious blend of Malbec, Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat, from Salta. This is the 170-year old winery that Donald Hess of the Hess Collection bought a few years back from Raul Dávalos, who is still producing wines further up the mountain under the Bodega Tacuil label.
So, back to the pizzas, which are worth the trip across the docks to try. Prepare to spend a little more than you might at other places, but if you don’t mind that, order yourselves a couple of grandes, or a wide selection of chicas (so to speak), a good bottle of wine, and enjoy the view.
Wine and pizza, a match made in heaven. there are plenty of other wonderful and delicious foods, but as a New York City-born person, pizza is right up there. And think about it. Given the numerous combinations possible on pizza, a wine really must be well-made to stand up to it.
Couldn’t agree more. I always thought that one of the coolest small restaurants you could do in New York would be to do individual sized pizzas and burgers, in a myriad of varieties, and offer an array of wine by the glass, or even an array of half-bottles!
Finally a good pizza place! What are the prices like?
Well, hard to say now – this post is more than three years old. It is, however, a Puerto Madero restaurant, so not on the inexpensive side. Last time I was at Minna was about a year ago and it was pretty pricey in comparison to other pizza a la parrilla spots – on the other hand, they have a wider selection of interesting pizzas, and a great wine list.
[…] looking for the good stuff, and who knows where one will find it? And, I’ve always enjoyed Minna, which is in the zone. So, off we went the other day to check it […]