“Sacred cows make the tastiest hamburger.
– Abby Hoffman, Activist
Buenos Aires – The subject of finding a good hamburger in town came up several times recently on the internet – a travel forum and a couple of expat forums. It was an instant blood in the water with circling sharks fest, as some touted various locales and others trashed the whole idea as an anathema to the spirit of being here. If the questioners had just been tourists, I might have agreed with the latter viewpoint, but they weren’t, they’re expats, as are numerous others on the forums. It’s a valid question, as a change of pace. In general, I haven’t been enamored of the burgers I’ve tried here – Argentine beef tends to be so lean that you just don’t get a juicy burger, and that’s key. So I put the word out among local friends, both Argentines and expats, and decided to take the list of recommendations and try some of them out.
Like many things, this exploration turns out subject to cultural differences. It shouldn’t really surprise me – the most common reaction from locals in regard to hamburguesas is – if you’re going to eat crap like that, why don’t you just go to McDonald’s? They may be right, too, in regard to the average local burger, which often resembles a piece of shoe leather. In fact, there’s a large industry in Argentina supplying neighborhood cafes with premade, frozen burgers, much like a fast food chain uses. And, bluntly, and I know I’ll get into trouble for saying this, most Argentines seem clueless when it comes to a good burger. Let’s face it, a real, proper, juicy, thick hamburger, regardless of its origins or availability anywhere else in the world, is the core of “cuisine” of the heartland of the U.S. – the midwest – my homeland. You may find the occasional great burger elsewhere, but you’ll never find them ubiquitous. It’s a cultural thing, really. Just as I’d bow to the judgment of many a porteño on where to get a great matambre, empanada, or dulce de leche – because, simply, it’s part of their heritage, and not mine; I can blithely say, when it comes to hamburgers, they don’t know what they’re talking about.
The menu offers two burgers, one with bacon, cheese, and tomato; the other with ham, cheese, and onion. I decided on the former as my “benchmark” burger, since this was the first place to get checked out. Ordered the burger medium rare, with a side of fries. Squeeze bottles of ketchup and mayo (both Hellman’s) arrived swiftly, I asked for mustard and got a basket of mixed packets of ketchup, mustard (Savora), mayo, and salsa golf. The burger – good sized, probably half a pound, reasonably tasty, cooked well done, the meat ground, or pureed, so finely that it was more like a block of meatloaf, still, well seasoned. The bun, excellent – a real, proper hamburger bun. The bacon – thick cut, more or less what I think of as English style bacon – “streaky bacon” – and just warmed rather than cooked, so it hung limply and fattily on the burger. Tomatoes fine, especially given the winter season. Fries – way overcooked – crunchy and hard. Menu price for the burger, 12 pesos, including the fries, but the bar’s computer only charges 11… go figure.
The menu offers three burgers – a beef burger, a chicken burger, and a hamburguesa completa, the last as close as I was going to come to my benchmark bacon cheeseburger, this one a ham and cheeseburger. A plate full of condiments arrived immediately – squeeze bottle of ketchup, packets of all the others, and a large can of extra virgin olive oil for salads (they couldn’t put it in a cruet?). The burger is offered with the options of pan francés, pan arabe, pan pebete – respectively what we might call a Pullman loaf, or pain de mie in French, a pita, and a large dinner roll. I opted for the toasted pan francés, more or less a dense, crustless white bread. Note that the burger isn’t in sight – at probably about 5 ounces, it more or less disappeared underneath a couple of slices of lunchmeat ham and some melted quasi-swiss cheese. The burger, when found, cooked correctly at medium rare, and about as flavorless as possible – no seasoning – none. The fries, also cooked perfectly, strangely all very short, not much longer than tater-tots, but tasty. Menu price, 17 pesos for the burger and an additional 5 for the fries – 20 and 6 if you eat them at an outdoor table. You could get a better burger and fries for the same price in any coffee shop in New York.
The only thing Períca has going for it is its location – a beautiful spot looking out over Libertador and the park across the street, it’s next to the Design Museum, and it’s a great place to sit and soak up some sunshine. But it’s simply a plain white neighborhood cafe, with harried, barely friendly waiters who couldn’t be less interested in service if they made the effort.
That said, I have to give kudos to the burger itself. I mean, look at that picture – you can actually SEE the burger. It’s a real bun. It’s flavorful, and despite being cooked slightly more than requested (an argument with the waiter – I ordered it medium rare, he insisted on at least medium, asserting to me that less than that was “unhealthy”, and refusing to put my order in that way – I could have sent it back, but it seemed like it would be a waste of time, and it wasn’t like they’d cooked it well done), it was juicy and good. Hard Rock offers several burgers in a “regular” six-ounce size, and this, the “Legendary” burger in a ten-ounce size – for a mere four pesos extra. It’s topped with strips of actual, real, crispy, smoked bacon, a slice of cheddar cheese, and a passable onion ring. A squeeze bottle of mustard and a glass bottle of ketchup were already on the table, both Heinz. The fries, while slightly overdone, are “peel-on”, which I happen to like, and they weren’t so overdone as to be burnt or anything. If it weren’t for the continuous blare of music and the strobe-like effect of a hundred tourists constantly snapping flash photos (and I obviously contributed at least one flash to that number), this might be an interesting place to check out further.
TGIF offers several versions of their burger, each of which is purported to be 225 grams or 8-ounces. I’m not sure when these burgers were a half-pound, but certainly not by the time they arrive at your table on a bun. Yes, yes, I know that a good burger loses weight as it cooks, as the water content steams out and the fat content drips out. Still, it’s a decent sized burger, and well-seasoned. It’s oddly shaped, looking a bit like a wide mushroom – I’d guess they must pack them into a mold with a bit of an overhang that remains when cooked. The bun is a standard issue hamburger bun, the “famous” burger is topped with real, crispy, bacon, American cheese slices, lettuce, tomato, and strangely one strip of raw onion; despite asking for my usual medium rare, the burger was completely well-done. The fries are clearly formerly frozen, are tasteless, and for that reason, I’m actually thankful that they’re served in what is possibly the skimpiest portion of french fries served with a burger I’ve ever seen in my life. The burger comes accompanied by a small cup of mayo. I had to ask for ketchup and mustard – the latter (squeeze bottle of Heinz) arrived immediately, the ketchup (glass bottle of Heinz) they had to go search for.
The burger itself, when if finally arrived, was great. Definite thumbs-up material – juicy, one of two burgers of the entire survey that actually came out cooked rare to medium rare as requested, well seasoned, good-sized, and topped with crispy bacon, melted cheddar cheese, onions, pickle, and tomato. I found it slightly odd that the bun (which is a proper hamburger bun) is already coated with mustard, though just a touch, but I still wanted more – which I had to request, and took some time to get, finally arriving in a small silver cup to match the one that was on the plate with ketchup (for the fries). The fries are of the thin variety and were a bit soggy – my guess, given that that’s hard to do with thin fries, the oil isn’t hot enough. 18 pesos, fries included. Oh yeah, they have decent nachos (ask for chilis if you want it proper), iced tea, well, all the stuff you’d expect on a Houston’s menu. It’s also a pretty cool setting, if you grab a table by the back window you’re looking out over the horse track of the Hipodromo.
In the end, my vote is for the burger at Kansas. The burger and fries themselves were slightly better at Hard Rock Cafe, but their outright refusal to cook it rare or medium rare, their sucky service attitude, and earsplittingly noisy ambiance (unless you’re into that I suppose), more than counteract that. Kansas’ friendly attitude, comfortable and pleasant setting, and their food are probably as close to home as any U.S. expat is going to get here. It’s not the U.S. at it’s finest, shining best, but it’s certainly world’s apart and better than that of the legion of McDonald’s, Burger King, etc.
[…] All in heavily French(?) accented Spanish, and this continued for a few moments more. You gotta be kidding me. Now, this is only the second time in my life I’ve been told I can’t photograph someone’s food. The first was during my hamburger roundup last week, at Kansas, and if you read back there, you’ll know what I thought about that. Here’s the thing, and I know there are chefs out there who won’t agree with me – the topic’s been of some discussion on places like eGullet at various times. There are chefs out there who truly do produce works of art on a plate. I understand their reluctance to have someone snap a picture, perhaps post it somewhere, and have someone else duplicate their presentation. I really do. But, too bad. Even without a photograph, if I was a chef intent on copying, I could do it. I could do it by memory, I could make a sketch. It’s not that big of a deal. Try duplicating flavors of a truly talented chef – that’s the hard one. […]
[…] Buenos Aires – There’s a two block strip along the south side of the Recoleta cemetery lined with restaurants. They tend towards the expensive – it’s the trendy part of the wealthy section of the barrio. Tree-lined streets, seating outdoors in good weather, touts trying in Spanglish to entice tourists to dine. The big differences between this “tourist trap” and that of Puerto Madero are two – first, more if not most of your fellow diners here will be locals, and second, though just as expensive, for the most part I find better value – higher quality, more interesting food. I’ve enjoyed dinners at Lola, lunches at Munich, coffee and people watching (though not the burger) at La Biela, and only once had a bad food experience, at H.J. Bean’s, thankfully closed. Yesterday lunch I headed with a new visiting friend from Chicago, a food writer, for lunch at Munich. It was a gloriously beautiful day and we wanted to sit outside, which unfortunately it turns out, Munich doesn’t offer. He wanted to try porteño cuisine, so we decided to take a chance on one of the several parrillas lining the strip. […]
I forgot to mention that on my recent trip to Tigre I encountered one of the owners, David, of Kansas. He had spent the day up there with a whole bevy of family members who are in Argentina visiting him. We didn’t get a chance to chat much, and I certainly wasn’t going to bring up my experience of his restaurant, in front of his family. I just acknowledged that I was familiar with it and had been, and gave him a card for Casa S, which he wasn’t familiar with. He didn’t respond with one of his, but then, he was in shorts and a tank-top, he might not have had any on him.
There’s an ancient argentinian recipes book called “La Cocinera Criolla.” By the time it was published, cook books included tips on everything home related, from ironing to weddings and treating hangovers, etcetera.
Burgers are listed there (Hamburguesas) under “food for the sick.”
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