“Sometimes when I reflect back on all the wine I drink I feel shame. Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the vineyards and all of their hopes and dreams . If I didn’t drink this wine, they might be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself, ‘It is better that I drink this wine and let their dreams come true than be selfish and worry about my liver.'”

– Jack Handy, Comedian

One last NYC post – given the season, I knew that while I was in town there would be a good number of wine trade tastings – those lovely little events where the buyers from stores and restaurants get to go and smell, sip and spit the various wines they pick to put on their shelves and menus for everyone else. And, indeed, there were quite a few last week, though, as it turned out, I only had time to make it to one of them (note to self, intensive martial arts training and running around to new restaurants = less wine tasting… tradeoff?). I dropped in on the Polaner Selections Burgundy and Champagne tasting after checking in with them to make sure it was okay – after all, I’m not in a position to buy anything from them anymore.

So, full disclosure under the new FTC guidelines for bloggers – I was compensated by sips of thirty different wines of varying values, though there was no expectation of a positive written review on the part of Polaner Selections, and besides I spit it all out into the provided buckets, which I believe covers me under the FTC’s recommendation to “return the sample” – there, I think I met the new federal blogger rules… oh wait, it’s not Dec. 1 and I don’t live in the U.S…. let’s just get on to my notes (short ones):

I tasted through mostly the white Burgundies, a favorite of mine and something I don’t get a chance to drink much. All of these are 2007 vintage. I’ll estimate what the NYC retail prices of these would be based on past experience, but don’t hold me or anyone else to it.

• Jean Manciat Mâcon-Charnay Franclieu – very steely, higher acidity wine with plenty of citrus and herbal flavors, grapefruit dominating – exactly what it should be. $20
• Oliver Merlin Mâcon Roche Vineuse – interesting lemon-lime character that came across a little like Sprite without the sugar, floral notes, quite minerally – good. $20
• Oliver Merling Pouilly-Fuissé – wet stone, hazelnut, and a slightly sour citrus note that I found odd, not one of my favorites. $40
• La Soufrandière Pouilly-Vinzelles – floral, lime, good acidity, a little short on the finish, but it’s young, give it a little more time. $38
• La Soufrandière Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Longeays – raw almonds, floral, lemon, minerally – quite nice. $48
• Bret Bros. Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos Reyssié – toasted almond, minerally, light floral, beautifully balanced, very good. $48
• Bret Bros. Pouilly-Fuissé en Carementrant – toasted hazelnuts, minerals, great acidity, wonderful complexity and balance, a star – it should be. $53
• Vincent Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Embrazées – apples, spice, good acidity, nicely balanced, delicious, always been a favorite, and not surprising. $45 for a half bottle
• Thomas Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Baudines 1er Cru – earthy, lime, spices, almonds, truly outstanding wine. $75
• Thomas Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru – soft, almond, good acidity and balance, a little closed, but quite good, give it time. $75
• Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet – lemon, almond, toasted bread, good, but little less interesting than I expected for this one. $60
• Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée 1er Cru – almond, lemon-lime, slightly high acidity but overall nicely made, either very closed or a rather disappointing effort given the price and past tastings. $100
• Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Boudriotte 1er Cru – minerally, almond, floral, great acidity and balance, complex, delicious. $78
• Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Vergers 1er Cru – lemon, almond, minerals, a little high on the acidity, but it’s young and needs time. $78
• Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru – what’s not to love? amazingly complex, with hazelnut, toast, spices, apple and citrus, minerallys, and incredible depth and length – actually amazingly developed given that it’s the same vintage as the other wines from this producer, but truly a spectacular wine and the star from among those I tasted. $200+
• Pierre Boisson Meursault – hazelnut, good acidity, minerally, a bit of fruitiness, nicely balanced, quite good. $53
• Domaine Boisson-Vadot Meursault Grands Charrons – my second favorite of those I tasted, hazelnut, lime and lemon, toast, great acidity and complexity, delightful. $56
• Domaine Boisson-Vadot Meursault Chevalières – apple, light spice, macadamia nuts, good acidity, quite good. $60
• Domaine Boisson-Vadot Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru – lime, floral, juicy acidity, great balance, very good. $93
• Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Meix Sous le Château – raw hazelnuts, good acidity, minerally, noticeable oakiness, surprising, not a favorite but maybe it just needs time. $60
• Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Chevalières – earthy, toasty, quite good fruit and spice, very good. $78
• Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Tesson – the oddest note I think I’ve ever gotten in a white Burgundy, pure guava fruit and flowers, good acidity, but just plain strange for the genre, and not sure what to think about it. $80

I had to taste a few red Burgundies as well while I was there…

• Gerard Mugneret Vosne-Romanée 2007 – very floral, cherry, light spice, quite soft with virtually no noticeable tannin, still, quite nice. $69
• Gerard-Mugneret Nuits St. Georges Boudots 1er Cru 2007 – black cherry cola, spice, great acidity, nicely balanced, very good. $100
• Michel Ganoux Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru 2005 – dark berry fruit, spice, medium tannins, well balanced, but for the price rather disappointing. $105
• Michel Ganoux Pommard Rugiens 1er Cru 2005 – earthy, tannic, licorice, tar, red fruit, a bit closed, but really complex and packed with flavor, needs time but going to be excellent. $108
• Michel Ganoux Corton Renards Grand Cru 2005 – violets, brioche, spice, red fruits, good acidity and balance, truly a lovely wine. $108