The good thing is, as I’m doing this marathon of checking out restaurants for the guide, I’m finding some surprisingly interesting food here and there. The bad thing is, there’s also some pretty mediocre food out there. I was having a conversation with a friend about it and her response was, “How is it that the guidebook can have such bad places in it? Didn’t the person before you have any taste?” Now, I know my predecessor, and my guess is he has pretty good taste in food, though we’ve never dined out together. But he also had a predecessor, who had their tastes. And restaurants change. And there’s a different selection available (3-4 editions ago there wasn’t much of a choice in town besides steakhouses, hotel restaurants, and some Spanish and Italian spots), and the editors change as well, and they have different criteria.
When I did this for the last edition, there were roughly a hundred restaurants in the guide, and my instructions were to re-review the one third of them that it had been the longest since they’d been reviewed, not to remove any from the listing unless I had a compelling reason to do so and for that I had to get approval of the editor, and for the remaining two-thirds to just confirm that each was still in existence, that the address and phone number was correct, and give an estimate of their current price range, other than that I wasn’t to touch them. And I could only add new places in place of ones removed, either because something had closed or because I’d gotten approval to take something out – they wanted the number of places to stay the same. Partially I imagine that it was because it was a trial run – it was the first time I’d worked for them and they didn’t want me mucking the whole thing up.
This time, a new editor, and the instructions are pretty much, “fix it”. The choice of which places needed re-reviewing has been left up to me, as many or as few as I feel necessary, remove ones that don’t make sense, put in new ones that do, basically, bring it up to date. It’s a lot more work (and a shorter timeframe than I had last time, hence the marathon eating), but it should both end up with a guide that’s not so outdated in terms of choices as well as, on a personal level, be a selection that I can be proud to have delivered. It won’t be 100% “my tastes” as I have to take into account that the book needs to appeal to and serve a wide range of types of tourists, so I have to set aside certain prejudices and accept that there will be some places in there that I can see the draw for, but wouldn’t personally go to (as you’ll see down below).
On to the next round of four….
Five chewy, flavorless gyoza; two uninspired, loosely rolled so they were falling apart maki rolls; and a few pieces of at least acceptable sashimi ran to 322 pesos. They threw in a free dessert, a passionfruit flan, which was the best thing in the delivery bag. I could have ordered more or less the same four items from Dashi, one of two other major chains here (Itamae being the third, which I don’t seem to have ever reviewed, though my one experience with the one near home was pretty awful), gotten far better quality, faster delivery (Sushi Club called me to say that the delivery time I asked for wasn’t available even if it said so on the website, and my order would come 45 minutes later than that – about an hour and a half after I ordered), all for about 50 pesos less. So, had it indeed been the touted cheap place for sushi, I might leave it in the book, but given this, it’s coming out. And thinking about it anyway, do tourists really come here to eat sushi? If they do – I’d recommend they go somewhere great, like Yuki that I reviewed yesterday.
So, the entryway is lined with heavy, dark red, velvet brocade curtains – you can’t really see inside. Inside is pretty dimly lit and all in more dark red, it’s so dim we couldn’t read the menu without holding the candle on the table over it, and there was no way photos were going to come out without flash. And it gets darker later on during the show, not surprisingly, when they basically turn the lights off except the stage lights. The food, indeed, has bizarre names, which presumably in some twisted logic make sense to the owner and/or chef. But you end up ordering by what they are, not by the odd names, so it’s just a gimmick. We had prawns in sort of sickly sweet sauce – like a Thai dish without the salt, sour or spice. Well cooked sweetbreads, but unseasoned and accompanied by a refrigerator cold slab of brie. Dried out chicken breast glazed in sherry, ginger and grapefruit, not that you could taste any of those, and stuffed with some sort of fruit compote and accompanied by two sides – a watery, tasteless squash puree, and a reasonably good saute of vegetables “chop suey” style (maybe the name of the dish, “With Two Women” is a reference to the side dishes). And squid ink capelleti filled with mushy braised and unseasoned lamb (claiming to be with raspberry, we couldn’t taste any, and they’re not in season right now, maybe a splash of liqueur or something was in the braise), in a mushroom cream sauce with watercress foam (“Impudent and Volcanic Conquered Me with Obscene Words”, no idea). The food, not that we could really see it except with flash photos, while not bad per se, was just bland and uninteresting.
Service was pushy and not particularly friendly, in fact a bit grim, they seemed more interested in just getting everyone’s orders and serving the food before the show started, at which point they just disappeared. The show, that night, a 15 minute cabaret act that was two fairly good looking guys in open vests and tight pants doing a synchronized dance around the stage while a young woman did sleight of hand card tricks and gradually stripped down to a sheer bodysuit and pasties. Yawn. I might have been more intrigued by an erotic puppet show on another night, or maybe if the guys had taken something off. Apparently there was a second act of another 15 minutes coming up later, we decided not to stay, paid our check, and left. Outrageously pricey – with appetizers running around 120 pesos, main courses, 140, and, to top it off, 35 peso per person cubierto charge and a 50 peso per person show charge, neither of which was told to us upfront, nor were they on the menu that we could see, but then, we couldn’t really see, so maybe it was there in small print somewhere. Price tag for two, 854 pesos (with wine and water too), though because we’d made the reservation online there was a 35% discount on the food only, bringing it down to 680 pesos. Even 35% on the whole bill wouldn’t have made it worthwhile.
But, the thing is, looking around everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves immensely. Neighbors at the tables on either side of us seemed to be swooning over their food, and actually my dining companion liked it a bit more than I did. People were clapping and cheering the show. But let’s just say that most of the folk there, based purely on casual observation, were “lacking a certain sophistication”, and leave it at that.
We went next door to La Fabrica de Taco and had a couple of decent tacos al pastor and mojitos and brightened up the evening considerably.
[…] between Barrio Chino and the river, where we have well known foodie attractions like Sucre and Bruni. But there’s far more to explore in this part of town, and perhaps one of these days…. […]