“Why, anybody can have a brain. That’s a very mediocre commodity. Every pusillanimous creature that crawls on the Earth or slinks through slimy seas has a brain.” – Wizard of Oz
With the 92 bus pizza trek more or less winding down – given that it’s going to be just occasional visits when I can find the remaining places open, and even fewer new entries coming in for either The Great Sandwich Hunt or The Chronicles of Shawarma, it’s time to take on another quest. My thought was to head in the direction of something more Argentine – as when I set out to find the city’s best revuelto gramajo – hmmm, and that’s one to follow-up on, there are more entries that I’ve heard about since that post. Besides straightforward cuts of meat, for me, one of the defining things about local cuisine is the use of offal. Now, admittedly, most of the time it just goes straight on the grill or griddle, and while I could certainly head out to find the best barbecued sweetbreads, kidneys or intestines, I kind of do that already on my Best of Parrilla page that I regularly update.
And then, suddenly, my brain was filled with visions of brains (it was actually when there was an offal competition on the current season of Masterchef USA). Surely, out there, interesting things were being done with brains. And indeed, there is a classic of Argentine cuisine, sesos a la romana – at its most basic, deep-fried brains. Now, the dish has a history, not surprisingly, European (and who knows before that). There are basically three approaches to a la romana. The Italian, which given the moniker, one might suppose is the real thing, though of course the Romans don’t call it romana, because it’s just fritto, fried, for them, dredged in flour and then beaten egg and then fried (I have my own a la romana method that was taught to me eons ago by an Italian chef friend. The French method is generally dredged in flour, then beaten egg, and then coated in breadcrumbs. And, the Spanish, which seems to be the most common here, is dredged in flour and then dipped in batter before frying, somewhat like a tempura (though generally not as light).
The real questions for me were – did I really want to eat a whole bunch of plates of fried brains? And, would anyone be doing anything interesting with them, or was I just in for, a whole bunch of plates of fried brains?
Now, despite the fact that I really enjoyed the sesos a la romana at Albamonte (and maybe I should see if I can find someone going the French approach, with a breadcrumb crust), I realized after trying just two spots that it’s unlikely anyone is doing anything particularly interesting with this dish – I did an online image search for the dish at the other places offering the dish, and they’re all just plain deep-fried lumps in one form or another, with lemon wedges. I’m sure there are folk out there making some sort of creative brain dish, but I haven’t found one, and asking a few chef friends, no one could think of one (Tarquino apparently used to include brains as part of its nose to tail sequencia de la vaca tasting menu, but doesn’t any longer). There are ravioles de sesos, a less common but still reasonably well represented local dish, but still, served very simply. So, be it the plain-ness, or the thoughts of my cholesterol skyrocketing, I’ve decided not to go out and sample more of these (the other places on the list, should anyone care to take up the fork, are: Munich Recoleta, Plaza Asturias, Chichilo, El Puentecito, El Vulcano, Hermann, and Lezama). Instead, inspired by our recent online reinvention challenge, I’m going to give a shot at a little re-creation of this dish myself…. Coming soon.
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