This time around, what do we have for you? A quartet of spots from casual to fancy, all relatively new – opened in the last few months.
The menu is simple – a daily special, preprogrammed as “chicken”, or “beef”, or what have you, for specific days, but the preparation different each week, plus some pastas and sandwiches. Always on the lookout for the last, I settled in for the lunch combo of a sandwich, fries and lemonade for a mere 90 pesos. The combo of mortadella, radish pickles and arugula sounded like it would hit the spot. And, it does. First off, fantastic bread, worthy of just sitting there eating it toasted with some olive oil or butter all on its own. The griddled mortadella, a brilliant idea, an upscale version of a classic norteamericano fried bologna sandwich (really the only thing that should ever be done with bologna). It did need something more than just the faint schmear of butter on the inside, and a little pot of mustard was swiftly brought to the table to handle that. Same with some mayo for the perfectly cooked, delicate fries. (Even after almost ten years here, one of my pet peeves is that fries are virtually always served sans condiments, just plain potato – I almost always have to ask for mayo, ketchup, salsa golf, vinegar, or whatever, to accompany them.) The followup was less successful – from the short dessert list, I decided to go with something not overly sweet, and ordered the in-house made croissant and jam. While both were quite good, I have to say, that’s no croissant, which should be a light, flaky, laminated dough that you can pull apart in spirals of pastry – you can see the interior structure, this is basically a good bread roll, worthy of being eaten, but not a croissant. Just based on one try, I’d go back for the sandwiches, anytime.
The winning formula from Doppio Zero is pretty much repeated here, but with a more sensibly designed approach to the menu. Right off the bat what I really like is that everything on the menu, from antipasti to appetizers to pastas to main course, even to desserts, is available in both a full and half-sized portion (priced at around 60-65% of the full portion). It allows you to put together a little tasting menu of your own if you like, which I did on a recent visit. Meat stuffed olives with a slightly sweet tomato fondue for dipping; perfectly crisp on the outside and juicy on the inside rabbit croquettes with aioli and romesco sauces (both could use a little punching up of flavor intensity, but were good, and the croquettes were stars on their own); huge “tortellini” (not really tortellini because they’re not ring shaped, they’re more like plump, crimped ravioli without borders) in a silky smooth and delicious sun-dried tomato sauce; melt in your mouth tender rabbit leg over a soft, creamy mascarpone polenta (I’d go back just for that); and to finish, a lovely affogato – vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso poured over it at tableside. Fair disclosure, Mario gave me a deep discount on the bill – these five dishes, a bottle of water, and a cocktail would, off the menu, have run somewhere just shy of 400 pesos otherwise. Perhaps there really is a Retiro Revival going on, this is definitely one to add to your list.
Right off the bat, they need to update their website – the menu isn’t the same as what’s listed there, and the pricing is significantly different (on the website it offers 1, 2 or 3 courses for, respectively, 170, 260 or 350 pesos; in reality, appetizers and desserts are all 140 pesos, while main courses are 210, almost 40% higher). If you’re going to put your menu on your website, especially with pricing, it should be up to date. On to the food. Interesting sounding cocktail list, and my “Cocktail #4” with Bombay gin, dry vermouth, lemon juice, simple syrup, grapefruit oil and cucumber hit the spot, even at 80 pesos. Great housemade breads. A little amuse bouche of vegetable ceviche was a nice palate cleanser to start. A half grilled duck breast as a starter was beautifully cooked and served up with confited artichoke hearts and a “teriyaki gel” – delicious all around. Equally delicious, though coming in a bit skimpy on the portion size, a 6-7″ piece of grilled octopus tentacle with grapefruit, olive mayo, and squash puree – for 210 pesos I’d expect something a bit more on the plate, though I sopped up ever last bit of it. On the wine front, the bartender offered me the “special of the week”, three tasting portions of wines from a featured winery for a mere 60 pesos total, which sounded like a great deal, only to return to say that he was mistaken on the offer and they were offering a different winery, Zuccardi’s Nicasia Vineyard line, with tasting portions for 30 pesos per glass – a 50% increase there. Still, the tasting pour turned out to be relatively generous – I don’t know if that was by way of apology or normal for their pours. I decided against dessert, nothing on the menu grabbed my attention, and, to be honest, I was still a bit hungry for something savory, so headed out into the night 560 pesos down (with tip, 20 peso cubierto, 30 peso water) and headed home to fix myself a bowl of instant ramen…. Delicious, though obviously I found portion sizes small and prices a bit higher than expected. (Then again, at “blue rate” exchange, that means the entire experience came in around $38 – try that for two courses, a cocktail, glass of wine, bottle of water, and tip, on Columbus Circle….)