Somewhen (that should be a word, you know) along the way, I’d heard about this place that served traditional, high quality Italian food, family style, in an intimate setting. I had this image of the place being something like Casa SaltShaker, maybe a dozen people, gathered around a long table, being served by mama and her kids. I really don’t know how that image came to be, but that’s the one I’ve had for at least a couple of years. With Henry away, I thought it might be nice to go somewhere and share a table with a bunch of people, and enjoy some old-school Italian cooking (which isn’t his favorite anyway).

And so, I made a reservation at Ristorante Maria Fedele, Adolfo Alsina 1465, Monserrat. It seemed strange, making the reservation online, because here I was picturing this large family style gathering, but yet, there were reservations available throughout the evening…. I received a call a couple of hours ahead of time, reminding me that I had a reservation and to be sure to be on time, and that it was cash only. My online reservation confirmation had told me both, and that the price for the evening was 420 pesos ($21), plus beverages. Sounded like a steal!

I arrived at the duly appointed hour, to find myself entering the National Italian Association building. Hmm, okay, I guess it’s not in their home, they’re serving dinner in the social club. And I was guided down a long hallway, past a room setup for a single table of about 20 people, and into a larger room, setup like, well, a restaurant, with seating for about 50 people. Okay, this is nothing like what I expected. And hey, there’s a sign there that says the four course dinner costs 550 pesos ($28). Still sounds like a steal, but hey, why confirm by email at a lower price?

I was greeted by a middle aged man (dammit, he’s about my age), who was quite sure I’d been there before, but no. I’m the first there, and as others arrive, it seems that pretty much everyone has been there before, as he, waitstaff, and even the chef (who is not mama, but a large, roly-poly Italian gentleman who could be the poster-boy for a caricature Italian chef), come out and hug, kiss and chat with couples and groups who arrive. I also seem to be the most petite of diners arriving, by a solid minimum of 20 kilos, and, more on average, by about 50 kilos. I feel a little like I’ve wandered into an Italian enclave in the midwest U.S.

I’m offered water and wine, the latter I go for a glass of house wine, for which I’m served a half bottle, pretty much filling a large wine goblet to the brim. And it’s true “house wine”, with a nondescript label, no vintage, nothing, just “red”. 90 pesos. And then, my food starts to arrive….

Within a matter of 30 seconds, a whopping platter of charcuterie, cheese, caprese salad, and another salad arrives first. But right on its heels (there are 3 waitstaff, and they bring everything to each table in procession), is a huge meatball in tomato sauce, a slab of eggplant parmesan, homemade Italian sausages in the same sauce, caponata, sauteed bitter greens with peperoncino, and a bowl of lentil stew. And this is, I’m informed, the first course. I taste it all, it’s all excellent, particularly the eggplant parm, meatballs, and sausage. Actually, I could have just done with out the charcuterie platter and happily eaten through the hot dishes. And then I’d have been done and ready to go home. But no. There are three more courses coming. So I pace myself and, I eat the eggplant, the meatball and sausage, and just taste each of the other dishes.

Which is good, because then this bubbling hot cauldron of caramelle pasta arrives on the table. Filled with ricotta and borage, covered in cheese, bathing in tomato sauce, I think… okay, I can handle this, there are just four of them, and I reach for the spoon.

Except the other two waitresses are just lagging behind by a minute, and as I spoon two of the caramelle onto my plate, they arrive at the table with a malfatti of spinach and ricotta that’s the size of a baseball, and a plate of spaghetti tossed with olive oil, garlic, chilies, olives, capers, broccoli, and cherry tomatoes. Seriously, what?

I do note, watching as others receive their food, that I’m basically getting the same quantities as tables of two are getting. You would think, just on a food-waste and cost perspective, that given that they knew, well in advance, that I was dining solo, they’d have done smaller portions for a table of one. But, they don’t. And at other odd numbered tables, of three or five, I see them serving portions in quantities for two, which means that there’s always extra on the table for that odd man out. I guess they just portion everything in advance by twos and then send a sufficient number to each table.

I eat all four caramelle because they’re just that good. I try the malfatti, it’s light and fluffy, more so than any that I’ve had before, but I just can’t eat more than about a third of it. The spaghetti is good, but not wow, particularly in contrast to the other two pastas, and I try a couple of forkfuls, no more.

Who serves risotto after pasta? Really, who does that? These folk do, and course number three is about a two cup portion of carbonara risotto – with cured guanciale and egg yolk sauce, as classic as it gets other than, slightly strangely I thought, an intensely smoked cheese in the mix. I guess that was to complement the excellent wild boar bolognesa (more of a ragú from another region, but that’s fine) atop. I make it through about half of this. It’s really good, but I’m so stuffed already I’m not sure I’m going to be able to get up from the table. There goes the last two weeks of watching what I eat (lost a little over 2 kilos!) and exercise, pre-vacation.

I’m not a big dessert person to begin with, and one dessert on a plate is usually something I don’t bother to order. Still, it’s part of the meal. But come on…. A towering cube of one of the best tiramisus I’ve ever had, a large scoop of ice cream with candied walnuts, a slightly rubbery pannacotta in an intense caramel sauce, and a thick folded crepe filled with a rich chocolate pudding. I taste each, I eat about a third of the tiramisu. I groan. I finish my wine and water. I ask for the bill, 700 pesos ($35) with the beverages. add in a tip and I still waddle out for under $40.

At some point during the evening (actually at a couple of points), I’d said to one or another of the waitstaff that I couldn’t imagine anyone eating this much food. They all basically said, hey, just look around, and indeed, table after table, plates were being emptied and near licked clean. I appreciate the generosity of spirit and food, but truly, no one should be eating this much at a single sitting! And how they can do it for the price they do it, I have no idea. I guess it’s the quantity production of the same dishes and limiting things to a single tomato sauce, that makes it work.

Do I recommend the experience? Absolutely. Go prepared to eat. A lot.