It’s that time of year again, the annual, over-hyped, San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. You know, the 50 best list with 100 on the list. You’d think by now they’d just change it and either not offer a listing of #51-#100, or change the name to 100 Best…. I always get asked my opinion about the entries on it, and the thing is, I haven’t been to most of them (it’s a bit different when they do the specifically Latin America awards, where I’ve been to a decent percentage). Since I’ve already gotten a dozen or so requests for comments on this year’s awards….

I’ve talked in the past about my thoughts about award ceremonies in general and their impact on the restaurant world, it’s not worth rehashing. So this year, I thought I’d just put out one post that more or less answers the actual question I get asked, which is some variation on my opinion of the restaurants selected to be on the list, rather than the existence of the list itself. And while I’m still often surprised by it, I do appreciate those of you who trust my judgment on dining out. And hey, I even appreciate those of you who don’t, but still keep coming back to see what I have to say.

Let’s work our way up from the bottom, and I’m mostly only going to comment on the ones that I’ve actually been to. This would be way too long of a post to do all in one, so I’m going to split it into two parts – first, the 51-100 range. Sensible, no?

 

At #99, and a new entry on the list this year, Leo, in Bogotá. We went there three years ago, and it had grabbed my attention because at that point it was a new entry on the top 50 for Latin America, at #49 (it’s now #18 on that list from 2017). My thoughts at the time:

Overall, great space, great service, really an amazing dining experience. Fantastic flavors, and even the dessert gave us something to think about in terms of new flavors and ingredients. The place is a little hard to find, being on a small pedestrian walkway in the La Macarena district, with only a small sign, and a door knocker to get someone’s attention – our cab driver hadn’t a clue where it was and had to stop and ask.

 

Here’s why I said this would be mostly those that I’ve been to. I have been to Indian Accent, but not the original in New Delhi, instead, their year or so old branch in New York, so at least, I’ve brushed up against it. Coming in at #90 on this year’s list, let me just say…

[F]abulous, fabulous, place and I’m glad it was our choice for my last meal in town. This is the NYC branch of a highly acclaimed New Delhi modern Indian restaurant. It deserves every accolade it’s gotten, from the space and decor to the really just nigh on perfect service. And the food. And the wine.

 

Two years ago in Mexico City, my last meal there was at Sud777, position #64. I still kind of regret not doing the whole tasting menu, but it was just one of those days I couldn’t face it. I went for a more straightforward three courses, starting off with a spectacular octopus dish. Thoughts at the time:

Room – beautiful. Service – friendly but weird – too many waiters, runners, busboys, managers, all milling about constantly, often passing through the room in single file, over and over again, for no apparent reason. And three times someone came to my table to ask if I was ready to order – first a cocktail, then for food twice – I had yet to receive a menu or cocktail/wine list, and each time I asked, and each time, they walked away and didn’t bring it. So I sat for almost 15 minutes with nothing but some water in front of me. Food – more than makes up for all that – elegant, delicate, beautifully presented, great flavors – not as bold as some of the other modern Mexican spots I ate at, but in a sense, more refined.

 

I’ve been to Tegui, #60, here in Buenos Aires, twice. I have mixed feelings about it, as you can see on my first and second reviews. I want to like the place a lot more than I do, but both times there have been missteps in both food and service that marred the experience. And everyone I know who’s been to the place has been disappointed, which makes me wonder how it keeps getting top marks and awards (#10 on the Latin American list? There are so many better meals to be had even just here in BA – in this category, style, and level of restaurant, I’d personally like to see Puratierra, Chila, and/or Aramburu be on this list). But, so be it, it’s all opinion.

So, hmmm, overall I enjoyed the experience. I felt taken care of, there were no service missteps once reaching the table. It’s obviously expensive for Buenos Aires, though these days not so much as it seemed to be a few years ago as there are plenty of restaurants now that are up there in that price range. The food, still kind of hit and miss, though overall I think better than that first experience – missing, for me, is a cohesiveness to the plates – there are often elements that while on their own are fine, they just don’t work together, and much of it seems forced rather than a natural flow. And, there are a few missteps in execution as well. I leave it as recommended, but in some ways, more for the experience than anything else.

 

I don’t get it, in the opposite way of the previous entry. My meal at Nerua, in Bilbao, was one of the top three dining experiences of my life. And it’s dropped two positions from #55 to #57 this year. This place, for me, should be somewhere easily in the top 50, and probably in the top 10. But again, it’s all opinion.

I can only think of two other menus I’ve had that were this extensive in which basically, I loved everything – Tetsuya’s and Trotter’s. While the meal isn’t vegetarian, vegetables play a key part in every dish. Were there things I liked less, or more, than others, of course, but there wasn’t a single course that wasn’t stunningly good, beautifully presented, and explained well by staff members who were not just correct in their service, but warm, friendly, and knowledgeable. There’s a choice of a wine pairing or a non-alcohol beverage pairing that consists of a series of fruit, vegetable, and herb infusions. There’s an extensive, well thought out wine list, and a decent listing of wines by the glass. How this place only comes in at #55 on the listing of world’s best, I have no idea, for me, I’m putting it at #3 of the best tasting menu dining experiences I’ve ever had.

 

Look, I love a good steakhouse as much as anyone who loves a good steak, and there’s no question that Don Julio, here in Buenos Aires, and coming in at #55, is one of my favorites here in town. And I’m thrilled for Pablo Rivera, the owner, who’s a friend. But honestly, I have trouble understanding, really, how any steakhouse, anywhere, makes it onto a list like this of restaurants that are into creative, cutting edge cooking, with top echelon impeccable service. This is a neighborhood steakhouse with friendly waiters and great food. It does give some fodder to those that claim this list is all about a popularity contest, because no question, this is a favorite of locals and visitors alike. At the same time, if any parrilla in BA is going to make it onto this list, this is the one to do it – attention to detail, great food, amazing wine list, great service.

So, with some folk visiting us after ending a Latin American cruise here in BA, who wanted steak, we headed off on a Sunday afternoon. Now, first disappointment, they were out of my ever favorite hanger or skirt steak, the entraña, which for me is practically the raison d’etre for going to a steakhouse, but they also have a great cuadril, rump steak, and ojo de bife, rib-eye. With a table of five of us, we ordered up one of the former to split, a half of the latter for one person, and for me, just to try something different, the matambre de cerdo, pork flank. Also a couple of sides of grilled vegetables to share. Delicious as always. 

I wanted to eat at DiverXo (#96) when we were in Madrid two years ago, but they were on vacation when we were there. And on last year’s visit to New York I considered eating at Estela, #83, but friends in the biz talked me out of it, and at Chef’s Table in Brooklyn, #69, but they had no reservations available, and at Martín Bersategui in San Sebastian, but after a disastrous meal at another spot (coming up in the second part of this), I just chucked it in and cancelled my other top-50 spot reservations in San Sebastian – in retrospect, probably a mistake, but I was in a mood. Besides, I ate great tapas at all sorts of little hole in the wall spots. And, numerous times over the years and multiple visits, I’ve considered dining at Per Se in NYC, but the price-tag puts me off.

Next up, Part 2.