The emblematic dish of Colombia is the bandeja paisa – a combo plate of a little of everything that represents the country. Classically, it includes rice and beans, avocado, egg, grilled plantains, deep-fried pork belly, sausage, spiced ground or shredded beef, and an arepa or two, the classic corn “cake” of the region. Here, two versions of the dish, one flying solo (as was I), the other accompanied by a “horde” of other plates, as it was our 81st Roving Ravenous Horde outing.

 

Rincón Colocho, Anchorena 589, Once. A year or two ago took over the space vacated by Mi Perú, this little Colombian spot is often packed to the gills with Colombians and Venezuelans going for a platter of home cooking goodness of one stripe or another. It was a given that I’d at least try the bandeja paisa once, though, far too much food for me these days. Still, this was so good, I finished pretty much everything but some of the rice. And, it has all the classic components listed above. Add to that a selection of fresh fruit juices, and a decent hot sauce to spoon over it, and I was a happy camper. Given the volume of food on the plate, and that with an appetizer, this could easily be a meal for two, the 530 peso price-tag is a steal. [Closed on Tuesdays, we discovered when the Horde initially made plans to go there.]

 

Los Guaduales, Uruguay 943, Retiro, where we rerouted after discovering that the above place was closed for the day. Just a name change to a long time Colombian gathering spot, Los Recuerdos, which I reviewed almost a decade ago. Or at least that’s the claim – and while it may not have changed ownership, the food is leaps and bounds better than it was (and it wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t great). The bandeja paisa here is fairly different, and not quite as generous, but more expensive at 650 pesos. This one has rice and beans, two fried eggs, a chorizo, a small steak, avocado, tostones, and an arepa. I guess it may come down to if you’d rather have a steak; or a combo of carne mechada, the spiced ground beef, and chicharrón de cerdo, the deep fried pork belly. Personally, I’d go with the one with more variety, and more interesting flavors and textures.

While we were waiting for food, our waitress brought out plates of arepas with salsa hogao, a tomato and onion relish. I didn’t see other tables getting the same, so I think it was just to keep our large group of ten happy.

Ajiaquito – a rich, satisfying chicken and corn soup – they also offer it in a large portion as a main course, ajiaco, and yum, a delicious soup. 190 pesos

Cazuela de frijoles – tasty red bean casserol with rice, chicharrón, avocado, and an arepa. We’ve had better, we’ve had worse. But it was good. 450 pesos.

Chuleta valluna – basically a pork milanesa – crispy fried pork cutlet, rice, lemon, and a little side dish of beans. Definitely a cut above the typical plain milanesa in so many places. 490 pesos.

Choriplatano – a smashed and fried patacón – sort of like a thick plantain tortilla, topped with chorizo, guacamole, and cheese. It was good, but no better than that. The patacón was really chewy, and the rest about what you’d expect from chopped up chorizo smothered in cheese. 420 pesos.

Higado encebollado – liver and onions, Colombian style. Paper thin slices of calve’s liver, amazingly good caramelized onion sauce, and a side of rice and beans.

Lengua a la criolla – calve’s tongue smothered in a tomato and onion sauce. I think it was probably the “dish of the day” – although that soup was probably my personal favorite. Beans and fries (all the main courses above that are focused on a single meat – the liver, tongue, and cutlet – you get to choose two out of fries, beans, or rice. 380 pesos.

The Horde left happy. At some point, however, I want to go back and try more at Rincón Colocho, which my sense is has better, and less expensive food. Future sampling will tell.