Let’s see, where are we at with this whole quarantine thing? It’s been extended, yet again, now until October 25th. That’s over seven months now! I’d expect they’ll do it again for yet another 2-3 weeks when we get there. But some stuff is opening up more. Many restaurants now have outdoor tables, either on the sidewalk, blocked off areas of streets, or their own patios and terraces. While not technically allowed, we’re seeing more and more spots that have large windows that can be opened, or even the entire front walls that open, setting up a row of tables inside, but along the front edge. And, here and there, we’re even seeing places that are letting people sit inside, period, though that I’m surprised they’re letting people get away with. Shopping centers have re-opened, with limitations on numbers of people inside both the common areas and the individual stores. Small social gatherings are allowed now as well, so we’re getting to see some friends – outdoors, but still, a step in the right direction.

Supposedly, starting this coming Monday, the 19th, domestic travel – long distance buses, trains, and planes – will resume on a limited basis. If I understand it right, for the first week air travel will be only for essential workers, medical personnel being reshuffled to other parts of the country, and people who live in another part of the country that they haven’t been able to get back to for the last seven months. Then the following week they will be open more to the public, with whatever restrictions are announced for health and safety.

So, glimmers of light at the end of the tunnel, despite rising numbers of cases in the country (though much of that is due to more widespread testing of asymptomatic people). The number of deaths has stayed relatively steady day to day over the last couple of months, even while the cases rise. And, in the city of Buenos Aires, numbers are actually improving, slowly, but in the right direction. Let’s hope we don’t screw this up as some places have.

Given all that, and that we’re in the midst of a protracted renovation of our kitchen due to an incompetent and outrageously slow contractor, we’ve been doing a bit more ordering in and eating out than we had been. I can still do some cooking, but it’s a logistical nightmare to do so for anything other than simple stuff, as all my pots and pans and ingredients are piled up in the dining room and have been for weeks now. So, what have we checked out?

Let’s do the takeout/delivery stuff first. A new Peruvian-Argentine spot that opened up near us in Recoleta, Café San Vicente, in the Galeria Americana at Av. Santa Fé 2440, corner of Av. Pueyrredón. It’s hidden away on the mezzanine level, back around a corner to the left. Friends of Henry’s. This is one of the spots that’s kind of brazenly letting people eat inside, which I’m not keen on, so it’s been takeout or delivery only for us. Now, it’s not Peruvian-Argentine fusion, but just a short daily menu of 4-5 things, usually 2-3 each of either Peruvian or Argentine dishes. On this first order (there have been a couple more), some excellent anticuchos to share, the spicy beef heart skewers were well seasoned and cooked just right; a chifa style dish of a sort of wok of chicken, vegetables and noodles, Peruvian style; and, a more Argentine breaded cutlet, almost like a milanesa, topped with an arugula and parmesan salad. All surprisingly good for a little hole in the wall café in the back of a shopping gallery.

New sushi delivery spot – I am ever hopeful when it comes to discovering ones worth ordering from. Koeru Sushi & Nikkei, Güemes 3992, Palermo, just off Av. Scalabrini Ortiz. Interesting looking menu, nice that there’s a selection that includes white fish, not just salmon, and rolls that aren’t filled with cream cheese. And, also that you can order nigiri in twos rather than the more ubiquitous fives or sixes, and rolls all come as half-rolls of four pieces, so you can do more mixing and matching to your heart’s content. The fish, fresh. The combinations interesting, and tasty. The negative, and unfortunately, it’s a big one, is the rice. It’s so gummy that it’s essentially melded together into a smooth mass. There’s no sensation of rice grains, just a lump of ice cold, rice-ish starch. I also noted that when ordering, the delivery guy had picked it up and was on his way to us in under ten minutes – which might imply these aren’t being made to order other than the decoration – maybe they’re just grabbing premade balls of rice and topping them or rolls and slicing them, putting them in a box, and adding the garnishes. That might explain the fused together rice. A shame, it has potential. Next time I’m over that way I’ll take a walk by.

We’ve walked by this place only a few blocks from home many a time, and somehow, never gave it a try before. Pepper, Agüero 2208, corner of Juan María Guttiérez, here in Recoleta. Classic Argentine café menu, and classic dishes. A beautifully crispy suprema, a fried chicken breast, with tasty mashed potatoes (or other sides available); and, one of my favorites, the revuelto gramajo, a sort of fry-up of potatoes, ham, and eggs – those of you who’ve stayed with me over the years have followed the adventure of the history and the finding of good revuelto gramajos here in the city. This one was quite good. And, a decent sized salad ordered on the side to split. Reasonably priced, and all the food was good. I think it will become a much more regular spot for us to eat at in the future.

Another spot walked past many a time, and again, a sort of classic neighborhood café. Mc NOR Café, Juncal 3599, corner of Av. Scalabrini Ortiz, Palermo. Was just out on my own getting some fresh air and wandering, most of the places I passed by were just too busy to get a table, so I settled here. More or less the “house special”, their Pollo McNOR, why not? Scallops of chicken breast, grilled (a bit overdone for my tastes), smothered, as you can see, really smothered, in a creamed spinach sauce, and served up with mashed potatoes, a beverage, and either dessert or coffee, for a very reasonable set price, currently 480 pesos, for lunch, with about a dozen main course choices. Unfortunately, unseasoned. Completely. No noticeable salt or pepper at all in either the sauce or the potatoes. Both were brought to the table before I asked, and I noticed they do that for every table, so I’m guessing they’ve just gone with – season it yourself. It’s not the same as when something’s cooked with seasoning. But, with salt and pepper, this wasn’t bad. It also wasn’t good enough that I’d return.

And, let’s finish off with a bang. A lunch out with Jamie from our Roving Ravenous Horde lunches. And, another notch in the Steaks with Bald Charlie saga. Parrilla lo de Juán, Carlos Calvo 2100, San Cristóbal is one of the last two steakhouses along the entire street that I hadn’t yet gotten to. The place gets mixed reviews – most are positive, though often with a qualifier of “for a neighborhood grill joint”. A few things stood out as more generally recommended – the offal, which turned out to be only a choice of chinchulines (grilled small intestines) or riñones (grilled kidneys), the chorizo sausage, and either the tira de asado, strip of ribs, or the vacio, the flank steak. We picked out a trio of those – the chinchulines were well grilled, which for us is a must, and although not seasoned, with a touch of lemon juice and salt, pretty darned good. The chorizo was sort of ho-hum, on its own not all that interesting, it’d be better as a choripan sandwich, but still just kind of average. The asado was pretty good – a little fattier than I tend to prefer, they could have trimmed it a bit more, and again, not seasoned (same with the decent fries) – so salt was kind of needed on everything. Their chimichurri has a nice kick to it, but again, little or no salt; and the same with their salsa criolla. Yeah, I know the city has strict salt guidelines for restaurants, and I know there’s the whole health kick of reducing salt intake, but you need some – and the truth is, if a chef seasons something properly with salt, they’ll probably use less than what a good percentage of customers would end up sprinkling over their food. Easy prices, generous portions, overall… pretty good… for a neighborhood grill joint.