It seems fitting to close out 2020 with a positive restaurant review and get ourselves setup for a far better 2021! Over the last many years we’ve been to our friend Christina Sunae’s restaurants – first, an in-home closed door spot called Cocina Sunae and then later, and many times since, to Sunae Asian Cantina. Earlier this year she opened up a casual spot called Apu Nena, Av. Dorrego 1301, in Chacarita. I grew up with a Grandma and a Nana, and never the twain were confused. If I understand it correctly, the name of this place basically means Grandma Nana, and refers to one ancestor, Christina’s Filipino side grandmother.
The food is a mix, according to her, of traditional Filipino recipes, modern made up on the spot ones, and her grandmother’s offerings. It kind of has the feel of market stall food, fancied up. The menu isn’t extensive, and at least on two visits made last month and earlier this, didn’t change. In some past writeups of the place, there was a bit of attention paid to daily specials based on what comes in from the market, but on neither visit were we informed of any, so not sure if those are currently not happening, or if, perhaps, they’re only offered at dinnertime – both visits we made were at lunchtime.
Dumplings, are of course a must, anywhere that offers them. Here, a half dozen pork filled ones, coated with shavings of umami rich dried shiitake mushrooms and slivered green onions are served with a soy and vinegar dipping sauce. On one visit they were delicate and perfectly cooked, on the other they were chewy and a trifle under. Both times they were delicious. 420 pesos.
Kaliskis are a traditional puff pastry style empanada, here jam packed with a flavorful chickpea curry that had us wanting a bowlful. The fiery dipping sauce and the pickled strawberries and radishes on the side were nigh on perfect accompaniments. 450 pesos.
We had asked about the pan de vapor, which we were told was a sweet potato bread. We didn’t order one, but apparently asking about it translated to an order, and for 80 pesos, we decided just to give it a go. It’s not stuffed with sweet potato, it seemed like maybe it was made with sweet potato starch, as “glass noodles” are. While a perfectly fine bit of bread to accompany the other dishes, it doesn’t have a lot of its own flavor.
An order of the Baboy Lemongrass, skewers of lemongrass infused pork, grilled to a lovely char, and accompanied by an herb and preserved lemon salad, and rice. So tasty! 660 pesos.
And, the Satti, which is related to the more well known dish satay or saté, but quite different in character. It’s skewers of chicken marinated in a lemongrass and ginger curry with hints of peanut and achiote, all served over vegetables and accompanied by rice. For us, it needed a touch more kick, and we asked for more of that great hot sauce from the kaliskis. 660 pesos.
In the non-traditional column has got to be this amazingly delicious dish. It’s a poke bowl, but made with a mix of pickled and grilled vegetables, and accompanied golden fried nuggets of veal sweetbread lathered in a tamarind glaze. It’s one of those dishes that just hits every note right. 880 pesos.
And, finally, the one dessert on the menu – a sweet potato gelato swimming in a miso syrup and liberally scattered with crunchy, chewy shards of peanut brittle. I’m not normally a big dessert fan, but this one was a winner all around. And, great coffee! 300 pesos and 150 pesos.
Oh, and not to be missed, unless you’re going wine or beer, is their housemade iced hibiscus flower and szechuan peppercorn infusion.
Cute place. Most of the seating is outside, with a few bar seats inside for now. Service is friendly and prompt. The food is delicious. What more could you want?
