The Great 2022 Barbecue Road Trip has begun. First stop after leaving Chicago… St. Louis, where we spent a couple of days checking out both barbecue and not, in the city, and then headed south to our next destination, Memphis. A quick round-up.

Basically we headed south on Rt. 55. And here and there we stopped off when we saw something amusing or interesting to do.

The world’s largest “railsplitter” wagon in Lincoln, IL. None of us has any idea what makes it a railsplitter, other than a small sign on the side that says so, but apparently Abraham Lincoln is driving this one, while reading a book, and dressed for success.

And, we couldn’t pass through Springfield, IL, without stopping in at the Lincoln’s home complex. And yes, albeit restored, this is the home where he raised his family prior to winning the presidency and heading to Washington DC.

We of course went to see the famous St. Louis arch. We didn’t go up in it because there was a nearly two hour wait, so we wandered around the area and looked at buildings and street art.

But we were there for barbecue, and we started off at Salt + Smoke, 501 Clark Ave, St. Louis. One of five branches of this well reviewed spot, we originally were going to skip it in favor of another, but we were right by it, it was just about to open (11am), and we decided to give it a shot. And, thoroughly happy we did. I’m only going to wax poetic (vaguely) about one thing at each spot we’ve eaten at rather than inundate with longer reviews. Do not miss the “trashed ribs” (or trashed chicken wings) – smoked, fried, glazed, smoked again, and glazed again. Solid. [Also tried: smoked brisket sandwich (good), fried gherkins (very good), and hush puppies (a bit dry and dense).]

A bit more of a wander in the area and then we lined up at one of the two outlets of Sugarfire, 605 Washington, in St. Louis (they have 15 locations, the other 13 are in the ‘burbs). Perhaps the “fine casual” moniker should have clued us in, but then, it’s barbecue, and the place gets great reviews. Don’t miss their road-work style sign out front. That’s about all I care to say about this thorough disappointment. [Tried: mixed platter of smoked brisket (overcooked and dry), jalapeño cheese sausage (meh), and ribs (a texture like they’d been boiled to death), with sides of cole slaw (really sweet) and green beans (mush).]

There are five locations of Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery, and we headed to the one closest to our hotel, at 1637 S. 18th Street, St. Louis. Tiny little place, maybe two dozen flavors available of ice cream. The “naughty” part is that about half their flavors are for adults only, as they contain alcohol. Didn’t end up trying one of those flavors, but we were all impressed with the carrot cake ice cream! [Also tried, a couple of vegan flavors, which they also offer, and one coffee and one chocolate flavor.]

On the non-barbecue side (mostly we’ve been doing two spots at lunchtime, getting just a couple of things and splitting them, and at night going somewhere for lighter fare), we headed to Olive + Oak, 216 W. Lockwood, Webster Grove. Highly regarded creative cooking. The standout dish for us was this coffee-glazed mushroom potato-bread toast with whipped ricotta and greens. [Also tried various appetizers – octopus (good), oysters (very good), and crab gratin (meh), plus main courses of a rabbit crepe (meh), grilled baramundi (good), and some vegetable sides of golden beets (good) and brussels sprouts slaw (very good).]

Heading south out of St. Louis, we stopped in Fenton, MO to take pictures with the famed pink elephant. I mean, it’s got it’s own Google entry (there’s another with an entry up in Wisconsin). We actually saw a lot of pink, and green, elephants along the route – it’s apparently an eye-catching advertising approach. But this is the biggest one, and most famous, and even has a marquis sign that advertises nearby businesses, and every now and again reminds you what you’re standing next to. Most of the rest of our passage through Missouri was dominated by a zillion disingenuous billboards touting the state’s new “heartbeat law”.

A brief drive through the complex at the National Shrine of Our Lady of the Snows in Belleville, IL, which sounds like it ought to be part of a Game of Thrones adventure, but it’s not, and we did learn a little bit about this somewhat more obscure (it seems) Catholic sect.

Day two of barbecue, and we kicked things off post-enlightenment at BEAST Craft BBQ Co., 20 South Belt W, Belleville, IL. Small place, and there were people waiting when we arrived, and they get a wave of folk right after opening at 11am, pretty much filling up. Then it quiets down and I gather they get another wave at a more normal lunchtime. We’d heard that the smoked turkey melt sandwich was not to be taken lightly, and we’d have to agree. I’d go so far as to name it the best turkey sandwich I think I’ve ever had (not that there have been a huge number). A thick slab of smoked turkey smothered under candied bacon jam, smoked tomato mayo, house-pickled jalapeños, and plenty of gruyere cheese, all on griddled sourdough. I mean, do I have to say anything else? [Also tried, smoked cauliflower side dish (a bit bland) and a mixed platter of saucy, smoked rib tips and snoots (quite good).]

Another top rated spot, and next up on our agenda, the 17ST Barbecue, 32 N. 17th Street, Murphysboro, IL. Food & Wine magazine named their eight-piece smoked, grilled, and then glazed wings as the best hot wings in America. Not having done as an exhaustive sampling as they apparently did, we can’t concur on the overall assessment, but these are amazingly delicious, and certainly among the best I’ve had. [Also tried: ribs (very good), onion straws (very good), and banana pudding (cloyingly sweet).]

And that capped off our first couple of days on the road.