We’re back! The month-long break and travel through a portion of the U.S., and in particular a new portion of it for me (I added three states to my “been to” list) should help with a bit of mental recharging. We’ll have to see how much influence southern U.S. cuisine might have in the next few months. On the surface of it all, other than wanting to really learn how to make a great biscuit, there wasn’t a lot that inspired me. But here and there were some glimmers of ideas. Corn ribs? Roasted corn and shishito peppers? Tiger salad? Mushrooms and wheatberries? Smoked tomato and bacon jam? Interesting that virtually everything that stood out to me on a barbecue road trip were the occasional vegetable dishes.

By the way, only one person (at least who contacted me) picked up on the titles of the road trip posts being country song lyrics. Just sayin’, y’all need to up your game in that genre.

We launched our first week back open with a private party that’s been booked for a while. All people who have been here before, though not together, but all of them work together at a local school. This was a good-bye dinner for four of the six, and the organizer requested a repeat of at least a couple of the dishes he’d had before.

Roasted Beet Causa – This one you’ve seen many a time on these pages. The causa base – chilled mashed potatoes flavored with lemon, ají amarillo chili, olive oil, and salt. The topping a mix of roasted beets, onion, parsley, cumin, chipotle, lemon, and tamarind. Purees of carrot and avocado yogurts below.

Bodegas Chandon Rosé (Chardonnay – Pinot noir)

A few months back I stumbled across a scholarly article written by an anthropology student in Peru on three “ancestral” dishes from the southern part of the country that have been lost to time. Not in the sense of that there aren’t records of how to make them, and even people who know how, but simply dishes that “no one makes anymore”. I was particularly intrigued by this soup, and spent some time researching different versions, and this is the first time we’ve offered it on a menu. The ingredients are not identical to the oldest recipes, rather updated to modern ingredients and cooking techniques. I love this soup, and it’s great for the chilly weather we’re getting now.

Quinua and Nut Chowder – Maybe not chowder, since that implies potatoes, but Cream of Quinua and Nuts sounds like breakfast cereal. The base, slowly sauteed onions, leeks, celery, walnuts, and pecans in a little oil and butter. Flavored with salt, pepper, and a good amount of cumin. Then topped with a mix of milk and stock (I used bacon stock, which gave it some of the flavor that originally probably came from using a rendered animal fat to cook down the vegetables). When everything was soft, I pureed it, added in some quinua that I’d cooked separately, some shredded poached chicken, and finished it with a splash of cream. Adjusted the seasoning, and garnished with walnuts, pecans, and green onions.

Familia Bianchi White Blend 2021 (Chardonnay – Moscato Blanco – Viognier)

Fettuccine with Mushrooms and “Umami” Sauce – A reprise of a pasta dish we started offering a few months ago in rotation. Semolina fettuccine tossed in a sauce of sauteed mixed mushrooms that were cooked down in butter with lots of garlic, ginger, and smoked chili, and finished with a mix of oyster, fish, and soy sauces.

La Celia Rosé 2021 (Pinot noir – Pinot grigio)

Huatía Sulcana – Our version of this old Lima classic that we’ve presented in various versions before, and one of the requested dishes. Beef braised in wine and stock for hours along with onions, garlic, a mix of chilies, and a panoply of herbs – parsley, cilantro, oregano, thyme, rosemary, basil, mint, chives, celery leaves. The vegetables and herbs then pureed into a thick sauce. Served alongside garlic rice.

Lagarde “Teia” 2020 (Cabernet Sauvignon – Cabernet Franc)

Avocado Cheesecake – And, the third of the requested dishes. Cocoa cookie crust. Filling of coconut milk, avocado, lime, ricotta, eggs. Topped with a limoncello infused dark chocolate ganache, toasted coconut, and a dollop of raspberry compote.

Amalaya Blanco Dulce de Corte 2021 (Torrontés – Riesling)

No southern influences yet – give me some time to play around with some ideas!