It’s been a bit over a month since our last Casa SaltShaker dinner. Henry’s away in Peru (coming back this week), so I just sort of suspended them. But, we had a couple of requests for a dinner even without having posted the date, so I decided to open one night and just play both chef and waiter (our usual fill-in for when Henry’s away is also away, so I didn’t have that option this month for a substitute waiter who knew what he was doing). Luckily, our dishwasher was still around! A nice group of half a dozen folk from the US and Brazil graced the table for a lively evening that, perhaps, delved too much into the rancor of current US politics.
Tiradito de Pescadilla – I don’t know that I’ve ever encountered “weakfish” on a menu back in the US. Apparently for marketing purposes it’s sometimes called grey trout, which I do believe I’ve run into now and again. Here, it’s a popular fish called pescadilla. I prepared a tiradito, a form of ceviche where the fish is cut like sashimi slices rather than in cubes. I’ve doubled them over after curing them in lime juice and salt, garnished them with slices of cherry tomatoes, chopped pistachios, coarse ground green peppercorns, and mint leaves, and then drizzled a little saffron oil and chili oil on the plate.
Las Perdices Extra Brut, from Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza; 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay, aged 18 months in bottle before release.
Caldillo de Mariscos – A long time favorite soup, especially on mildly chilly days, the caldillo is Chile’s answer to chowder. Onion, garlic, smoked merquén chili, zucchini, potato, tomato, all cooked down together, then peas, shrimp, and mussles added, and finally finished with smoked salt, parsley, cilantro, and cream.
Finca Las Moras “Los Intocables” Chardonnay 2021, from San Juan, the province north of Mendoza, 100% Chardonnay aged in Bourbon barrels, giving it a slightly smoky, sweet edge.
Fettuccine de Moka con Portobelos Glaceados – An inspiration from a couple of past dishes. It still needs some refining – I liked it, but it wasn’t quite at the level I wanted it to be. Hand-rolled fettuccine flavored with unsweetened cocoa powder, tossed with a sauté of garlic, chilies, walnuts, and radichetta in olive oil. Separately, quartered portobellos are roasted in a glaze of coffee, brown sugar, balsamic vinegar, walnut oil, cinnamon, lemon, and Worcestershire. Spooned over the top of the pasta and then garnished with shards of grana padano cheese and a drizzle of beet oil.
Bodega Chakana “Nuna Vineyard” Rosé 2021, from Lujan de Cuyo in Mendoza, a blend of Syrah and Malbec.
Muslo de Pollo Braseado – Inspired by a classic Brazilian dish, frango a mineira, this is chicken thighs rubbed with a mix of spices and left for a few hours, then browned in olive oil, along with onions, garlic, celery, leeks, pickled boquino chilies, rosemary, and thyme. Traditionally the dish would include rounds of okra, but it’s not in season here, and I added in green beans in their stead. Served with rice. Not as pretty of a plate as I might like, but then, the traditional dish, the second picture, isn’t either. But it is tasty!
Altaland “Tinto Histórico” 2021, from Mendoza, a blend of Malbec and Petite Verdot.
Panqueque de Ricota – It’s a blintz. Really, that’s what it is. Crepes filled with a mix of ricotta and yogurt sweetened with maple syrup. Warmed in the oven for service and glazed with tomato jam and dulce de leche flavored with rum. Garnished with tangerine segments and toasted peanuts.
Santa Julia “Tardío” 2021, from Mendoza, predominately Torrontés, with, I believe, a touch of Viognier in this late harvest dessert wine.
If you don’t follow me or us on social media, you might not know, but we’ve started offering lunch once a week, at least for now on Mondays, as an experiment. A shorter, three course menu, with two paired wines, for half the price of dinner. It’s no doubt going to be a different experience than the five course tasting menu, but I aim for the same general approach to the meals – classics of Mediterranean and Andean cuisine with our own inspirations. I might lean a little more traditional at lunch, but we shall see as these develop.
