I’m sure that at some point in its history…
…this street was much more attractive. It’s not exactly the sort of block I’d head to looking for excellent dining.
But I have, over the years, spotted this place, Le Famiglie, Salta 440, in Monserrat, opened back in 1980. And recently, it popped up in a couple of searches for great Spanish food, bodegones, and as one of the few places to get a really good rabbit dish. Local celebrity chef Pedro Lambertini recommended it as his favorite place to eat.
So I popped in at the opening bell one day recently. I have to admit, I had no expectation from the outside that it would look like this on the inside. Quite the pleasant surprise.
And, as it was what I was there for, I headed for the rabbit. It turns out, they offer it prepared three different ways, I went with the “hunter style” or de los cazadores. My waiter recommended that as I was solo, that would be plenty of food, and not to get an appetizer. And, indeed, it’s an entire half of a rabbit, cut into pieces, stewed beautifully with peppers, onions, and olives, and served up with slices of roasted potato. Spectacular! Easily the best of the few rabbit dishes I’ve had in BA.
It was so good, and I wanted to share this newfound spot with others, that I scheduled it for our next Horde luncheon, where five of us ensconced ourselves one day last week.
Excellent rabas, fried squid rings. Not the best we’ve ever had, but up there.
Two different dishes of pan-roasted abadejo, (variously translated into English as pollack, haddock, ling cod, pink cusk-eel, or rock ling, depending on who you ask), a great local fish. One was served with a caper and shrimp sauce – which, I think, was the best thing on the table this lunch; and the other with a chickpea, roasted pepper, and paprika medley in a whole lot of olive oil. Also delicious!
One of the best versions I’ve had of calamarettes lionesas, baby squid in a wine, onion, garlic, and pepper sauce.
Fantastic sweetbreads in a champagne cream sauce, and voted one of the best sweetbread dishes we’ve had locally.
And, we shared a trio of desserts. A classic flan, perhaps a trifle “scrambled” in texture, but great flavor. An excellent bread pudding with whipped cream and dulce de leche, and easily the best panqueque au rhum, a thick apple crepe flamed in rum at tableside, that any of us have had.
Service is very old school, and absolutely efficient and friendly. We were treated to shots of housemade limoncello at the end of the meal. Overall, great space, great service, and great food. This one becomes one of my new favorite spots in town!