A Little Glass of Water

Although traditionally a part of the Bordeaux blend, the red grape Petit Verdot fell out of favor years ago. One of the biggest reasons was that it is a slow-ripening grape, and the more principal components of Cabernet sauvignon and Merlot were already midway or further through their fermentation before the grapes could even be harvested. But it has become a bit of a cult planting in New World wines, where it is often produced as a 100% varietal wine, or with small additions to round it out. The French make jokes about it, with the play on the phrase “petit verre d’eau”, a “little glass of water”. A cute pun, but at the same time, given the intensity of the wines made from this grape, a bit off the mark.

Over the two decades I’ve been in Argentina I’ve seen more and more of these showing up on shelves. While many come to Argentina, and/or grew up here, are enamored of Malbec – easy to pronounce, easy to drink, kind of like the Merlot craze in the US years ago – Argentina produces so many better wines than many of those. Let’s start with half a dozen that I’ve sampled recently.

Bodegas San Huberto “punto devil” Petit Verdot 2021, Valle de Aminga, La Rioja

Petit Verdot 90% – Syrah 5% – Merlot 5% – full malolactic fermentation over 20 days, 50% of the wine is aged for a year in barrel, 50% is kept in tank, then blended.

Deep purple color. Aromas of blueberry and milk chocolate. Medium bodied, moderate acidity, soft, sweet tannins. Fruit forward, easy drinking wine with notes of blueberry, black plum, milk chocolate, and vanilla. Long finish. A great value at 6720 pesos retail, at under $5!

Bodega Atamisque “Serbal” Petit Verdot 2023, San José, Tupungato, Mendoza

100% Petit Verdot – stainless steel, temperature controlled fermentation, bottled without aging.

The serbal is a Celtic mystical tree, the “Lady of the Mountains”. I’m not sure why, but Atamisque doesn’t even note on their website or in social media that they produce a Petit verdot. Vivino only lists releases from 2020 on. Encountered this one at a lovely wine bar in Mendoza where it was offered by the glass. Medium purple, surprisingly lighter in color for a Petit verdot. And light to medium bodied, fairly high acidity, green tannins, short to medium finish. It was “fine”, but not one I’d jump to drink again. Pricing seem to run around 8-9000 pesos retail, just over $6.

San Huberto “Nina” Gran Petit Verdot 2021, Aminga Valley, La Rioja

100% Petit Verdot – three week fermentation then aged one year in new French oak barriques.

Deep red purple color. Medium bodied, fruit forward, moderate acidity. Fairly intense notes of mixed berry fruit, though blueberries shine through more than the others, definite notes of vanilla and chocolate from the oak. Slightly jammy sweet fruit with soft tannins and a medium to long finish. Decent value at 12,100 pesos, a bit of $8.

Ruca Malen “Capítulo Dos” Petit Verdot 2021, Agrelo/Luján de Cujo, Mendoza

100% Petit Verdot – cold fermented in concrete tanks, then aged for one year in barriques, 15% of which are new.

Deep purple color. Intense, jammy, boysenberry, with notes of cocoa, warm spices, and vanilla. Fruit forward, fairly full bodied, moderate acidity and alcohol, soft tannins, long finish. Drinking beautifully right now. Very good value at 13,950 pesos, at under $10.

El Psicoanalista Wines Petit Verdot 2021, El Peral, Tupungato, Mendoza

100% Petit Verdot – 30 day fermentation with indigenous yeasts, followed by mellowing in older French and American oak barrels (3-5 year old, used barrels).

Deep purple color. Aromas of boysenberry and brambles, the latter almost reminiscent of a Cabernet franc. Fruit forward, medium to full bodied, somewhat high acidity and alcohol, dry tannins, long finish. Perhaps needs some time to meld a little bit more. Good value at 14100 pesos, under $10, but I think it will be better a year from now.

Bodega Vistalba “Tomero” Single Vineyard Petit Verdot 2020, Valle de Uco, Mendoza

100% Petit Verdot – 3 week cold fermentation, followed by a year’s aging in barrique, 20% of that in new barriques.

Deep purple-red. Mixed black fruits and a strong note of eucalyptus. Fruit forward, full bodied, moderate acidity, slightly high alcohol, dry tannins, long finish. Great wine, definitely needs food to pair with it, was pretty much perfect with a char-grilled steak, heavy on garlic. We had it in a restaurant, where, if I recall correctly, it sold for 23000 pesos, $23, though retail it seems to run around 17000, or about $12. I’d happily drink it again.

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