Pasta without Pretension

Although New York City contains multitudes, most people move in fairly small social circles. So it’s a little surprising that chef Roberto Ottini and I never, to the best of my recall, ran into each other, given that we both spent a good portion of the same period of time working in Italian restaurants there. Hailing originally from Soresina, in Lombardia, Italy, home of Grana Padano cheese, Ottini knew early on that he wanted to be a chef. His career path took him to Sardegna, and then on to NYC to work in a newly opened branch of a Milanese restaurant, Paper Moon, and then seven years on, to Cipriani. I can’t say I frequented both, but I have eaten at both.

In 1997 Cipriani asked him to take on the reins of their soon to be opened restaurant here in Buenos Aires, and he moved here and fell in love with the place. From there, his career has been primarily in food television, and then a year ago, he had the opportunity to open Girardi and Girardino, Defensa 1328 and 1345, restaurant and focacceria, respectively. Girardi is, I gather, the surname of his business partner’s grandmother. I’d heard vague rumblings that there was excellent pasta to be had, and recently I made a solo visit, and, enjoyed it so much that I organized a Horde outing this last week to return and try more.

Girardi is not a huge space – there’s room for maybe twenty people in the front, maybe not quite, plus an area for a few more in the back. It’s comfortable, and decked out, as you can see, in Italian flag colors. I’d read in a review that someone had taken advantage of their offering half portions of pastas to try a variety among their group, and asked the waiter (Christian, excellent service on both visits!) about it. He said that they didn’t offer half portions, but couldn’t see any reason that they couldn’t (and, interestingly, the bill came itemized for 1/2 portions, which would indicate that at some point someone programmed that option in).

Some of the best rosemary and olive oil focaccia I’ve had since moving here. And, remember, they sell it across the street in their bakery.

I started off with one of the day’s two specials, pappardelle with an osso buco ragú. Simply spectacular. Perfectly made and cooked pasta and one of the best ragús of the type I’ve had. If I have any criticism of the pastas, it’s the minimal use of pepper. Probably an acquiescence to local tastes, but these days, I’m not sure that’s necessary – Argentines have gotten far more adventurous about “hot spices”. A few grinds of pepper added. 16000 pesos for a half portion.

From the regular menu, I wanted to try the calf’s brain ravioli. So few places here work with brains, other than for sesos a la romana, that I’m always interested when someone offers them on a menu in another form. Here, the delicate ravioli are stuffed with brains and swiss chard, and served up in a chive and sage butter sauce. Delicious! 12000 pesos for a half portion.

At some point Chef Ottini had dropped by the table just to say hello – not because I was recognized, he just made a point of stopping at each table. And, he sent out a small sampling of the other special pasta of the day, these mezzelune filled with artichoke and ricotta, and served up in a sage butter sauce, no chives. Also excellent! I may as well just say, everything I had on this visit and everything we had on the second, all agreed that it’s some of the best pasta, and other dishes, we’ve had in an Italian restaurant here in town. Certainly enough for me to move the place into my top five Italians! All in, with a half liter of fresh lemonade, and tip, 35000 pesos, or $24 (only slightly more expensive than if I’d just ordered one full pasta, as they charge about 66% of the price of a full one for the half order).

I quickly moved this place to the top of my list for the Horde to come check out. We originally had six of us reserved, though two canceled at last minute. A shame, we could have tried even more of the menu!

A bottle of wine, of course. From the Durigutti brothers, their Las Compuertas Cordisco 2021. Cordisco is another name for the Montepulciano grape, and this was a fine example of what can be done with it. A little pricier at 32,600 pesos, a little over $20, for our usual choices at lunch, but worth it.

We shared a couple of appetizers – a superb eggplant parmigiano, and roasted mushrooms over scamorza – smoked mozzarella – here, more or less done like a provoleta liquido, an Argentine favorite. Respectively, 18000 and 20000 pesos.

One person got a full order of the artichoke and ricotta mezzelune. 22000 pesos.

Another, the rigatoni alla carbonara – again, needs pepper, but otherwise, perfectly made. 20000 pesos.

I got a classic lasagna emiliana – simply a wow. Beautiful meat sauce layered with the pasta, and than a gorgeous, thick, browned crust of cheeses. 20000 pesos.

Similar to the pasta that I’d had on the first visit, but here, the full on osso buco dish, with the pappardelle on the side just tossed with a little butter. 23700 pesos.